While the grapes are being harvested, perhaps the most participatory and exciting activity linked to the vineyard and wine – “Oh girls, there is no time / How is harvesting / In the day the grapes are harvested / And at night it is dating!”, it was sung in the rogas of the Douro –, we are tasting the wines already made, which arrive on the market at the right time, ready to drink or to keep at home. And what good wines we have to taste: Rola-Pipa 2020, white blended with Verdelho, Terrantez do Pico and Arinto dos Açores, three noble Azorean grape varieties, which marks the 72nd anniversary of Cooperativa Vitivinícola do Pico – Picowines, tells an exciting and has an irresistibly seductive profile; Quinta do Monte d’Oiro Branco 2021, organic wine – viticulture in organic production mode with partial management was a quick and clear option of José and Francisco Bento dos Santos, father and son, for their property in the Lisbon region -, so elegant, approachable and table-friendly that he became a regular company; e Bons Ares Rosé 2021 is a first edition, an auspicious debut and a good surprise from Ramos Pinto, for its truly pleasant elegance, freshness and versatility.
But let’s go back to Rola-Pipa, whose history deserves special mention: in that black lava soil of the island of Pico, conditions had to be created to get the wines to the boats, to be transported to the island of Faial, which is why they are there , clearly visible, the grooves opened in the basalt slabs by the wheels of the ox carts in their comings and goings, which they call “rilheiras”; the ramps carved in order to roll the kites on them until boarding, hence the name rola-pipas; and the platforms, also flattened in the rock, to the blows of “marrão”, said anchorages, in which the boats moored. From there came famous wines, of which this is heir, or had not been purposely “rolled”.
Rola-Pipa Pico (White) 2020
Blended wine with Verdelho, Terrantez do Pico and Arinto dos Açores varieties, from vineyards planted by the sea. There are elements of iodine and salinity, present throughout the test, which give it a genuinely Picoense character, coming from the basaltic lava of the soil and the salty winds of the Atlantic. Fine and delicate in the aroma, which also shows good notes of fresh fruit, very well structured and full of harmony on the palate. It surprises and seduces. €25
Quinta do Monte d’Oiro Regional Lisbon (White) 2021
Lot of Viognier, Arinto and Marsanne varieties from vines in organic production, with fermentation in stainless steel vats. Seductive aroma, very clean and fresh, with good citrus notes, and elegant palate, with perfect harmony between acidity and fruit. A wine that is always appetizing, but whose place of choice is the table, where it reveals great versatility. €10
Bons Ares Regional Duriense (Rosé) 2021
Made with Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Tinta-Barroca (30%) and Touriga-Nacional (10%) grapes, with fermentation and 10% aging in casks. It has a soft color, between yellow and pink, fine aroma with fruity notes, vegetables and a delicate floral touch, elegant, fresh, dry and soft palate, with well-measured acidity spilling freshness. Requires table with seafood, fish, Italian and oriental cuisine. €14
